Sunday, May 3, 2009

The Toaster


I'll start my new theme about modern buildings in Copenhagen with one of the most criticized ones in the later years, the new Opera. The Opera was a gift from Mærsk McKinney-Møller, probably the richest Dane and owner of Maersk Shipping. He wanted it placed opposite the Royal palace of Amalienborg on a line with the Marble Church on an area that was the former Naval Station Holmen. Mr. Møller controlled the construction from start to finish out of the philosophy that it was his gift and his money. The city really needed a new opera house because the Royal Theater was old and rundown and a new scene would make it possible to stage the biggest of the operas and attract international talent to the Danish opera scene.

The result was this building on a small island at the harbor finished in 2004. It has been compared to a toaster or maybe a radiator grill on an early American car. Many people say it's too big and too dominant where it's placed with no other buildings next to it. It's a traffic nightmare to take a car to a show, a long detour and few parking spaces nearby sure make it a challenge. But in Denmark we have an informal "law" called Jante's Law. It states that you should never think that you are better than the rest. And this law is in my opinion the real reason for most of the criticism. Mr. Møller has too much money for manys taste and they think he flaunted it by giving this great gift to Copenhagen.

I think that it's a great shame that too many people of Copenhagen didn't show some gratitude for their new Opera. The building might be big but it has to be to make room for the scenes, the public areas, the workshops etc. and the traffic situation is far from optimal. I don't think the building is hideous nor is it placed in the wrong place. I don't think that its outside is beautiful either but inside it's stunning. Hardwood panels, walking bridges, great sphere shaped chandeliers and lots of marble, stone, glass and steel make for an interesting space as soon as you go inside. At night it's one of the few buildings in Copenhagen that is lit.

The photo was taken very early one morning just before sunrise and I think that it has an almost impressionist appearance.

Tomorrow I'll visit another new scene just around the corner from this one.

BTW: I've updated this post with the photos below to show some more of this building.

8 comments:

  1. It is a fascinating building...but I suppose I can't get a clear sense of it's size from pictures...and so, I just have to imagine how it stands out...Your photo, however, makes it beautiful, and hard to imagine the general dissatisfaction that seems to surround it. Thanks for sharing...I've long wondered about your profile picture...now I know the story! Just great!!!!

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  2. All the fuss about this wonderful gift could have happened here, or probably anywhere in the world.
    I like the building and, as an opera lover, I obviously think that big is better. Traffic problems often arise because people want to drive a car anywhere. This is probably possible in American cities thought for cars, much less in cramped European ones. Very good post, but I would like to see more of this building...

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  3. @Janine: Mystery solved; it was a picture I liked better than the portraits that exist of me:-)

    @Vogon: I've updated the post with some more photos of the Opera, taken on several occasions. It's easier to see the sheer size of this building on the new photos.

    @Asta: I obviously agree with you. The art of criticism is one we truly master. Just too bad it can't be turned into a living, unless you're a critic for the newspapers or a politician in opposition:-)

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  4. Hmmmmmmm... from the sounds of it this is an example of 'marmite architecture' - you either love it or you hate it (lol). Similar to the Gherkin building in London, or the Selfridges building in the Bull Ring, Birmingham. Personally, I do enjoy these artistic examples of modern architecture. Different (and not to everyone's taste), but interesting and innovative - in my opinion.

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  5. It's a great building! And the acoustics are great! Looking forward to Wagner in June.

    Christopher, consider going to the dome at Marmorkirken and get at top shot of the opera around the Queen's palace. That will put the opera into the right context...

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  6. @CathM: I went to Birmingham last summer, saw the Selfridges building and tried marmalite. I loved the building, but I can't say that I'll try marmite again...ever!

    @Christian: I'm going to see Tristan and Isolde in June too and I'm looking forward to it. I have taken some pictures from the steps of the Marble Church, but as for the dome...I'll leave it to the pidgeons :-)

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  7. Thank you for the new photos.

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  8. While you're seeing Tristan and Isolde in the new opera house, I must feel happy seeing them on movie yet. Thak you to Mr.Moller, Copenhagen now has a new opera house, something that I haven't seen in Indonesia yet.

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